In the eyes of Maxime de Laurentis: the "After Party" pumps by Martin Margiela

This week, Maxime de Laurentis evokes with us the avant-gardism of the famous Martin Margiela through the “After Party” pumps from the Spring-Summer 2005 collection.


Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela is a Belgian stylist, creator of the brand Maison Martin Margiela, which later became Maison Margiela. He entered the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1974 and, contrary to what many believe, Margiela was not not from the promotion of the Six of Antwerp composed in particular of Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten etc… He graduated the following year.


Once promoted, he wanted to learn about the world of textiles and decided to go into immersion with Jean-Paul Gaultier, in 1984. His rigor honors him and, after having learned his skills with the famous couturier, Martin Margiela launched his own brand. in 1988 Very marked by all the media exposure he attended during his years at Jean-Paul Gaultier, Margiela made the promise to embrace anonymity and to work only in the clothing service for clothing. No interview, photo or greeting at the end of the catwalks… His clothes thus bear white labels sewn of four easily detachable threads for those who wish to remove them.


Martin Margiela has also accepted to take the artistic direction of various houses, such as Hermès for 8 seasons. Their collaboration has also made take off the Prêt à Porter of this prestigious luxury House. Martin Margiela is renowned for its avant-garde and its ability to create new concepts, with the main desire to create unique handcrafted pieces, made from recovered objects or clothes. Recover, deconstruct: remove linings, put clothes inside out ...


"After Party" pumps

The pair of shoes we are talking about today comes from the Spring-Summer 2005 collection. One of the themes of this collection was to divert the garment by rotating it 90 degrees, a great first! Deconstruction and wear are also a major theme for this season at Margiela.


These shoes are called "After Party" because they are presented worn by hand, a metaphor for the wear of shoes at the end of the evening, altered by the dance and the vagaries of the night. The shoes can indeed rub against each other during the night parties and the designer used a sandpaper polish to reproduce this worn effect. The pump is "deconstructed" and does not have the usual finishes of a well finished shoe. 


The. heel also seems damaged and turns in the tail of a corkscrew. This detail was part of the show at the time Indeed, the catwalk took place without music, with the rhythm, the sound of "damaged" heels sinking in a precarious ground made up of pieces of cardboard laid out casually. The shoe is very present in the Margiela universe and inspires the collections over the years.  The “After Party” model has moreover influenced the make-up of the models during the catwalk in 2005. The famous Belgian make-up artist Inge Grognard reproduced the alteration of the shoes with glitter sprinkled on the faces of the top models and "worn" pins or clips placed in the hair.

Since 2010 Martin Margiela has withdrawn from Fashion radars to devote himself to a career as an accomplished artist exploiting his flagship themes such as 200% enlargement, alterations transcribed in painting ...



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